I saw someone walking down the street with a headband similar to this, and decided to make one for myself. The pattern is pretty simple, don't be put off by the single cable. I posted a picture tutorial for cabling under my last headband pattern, which you can find here. The knit 1 purl 1 ribbing on this piece makes it a bit thicker, and helps keep it flat instead of curling at the edges. Hope you enjoy the pattern!
Worsted weight yarn
Size 8 (5mm) needles, and a spare needle
Cast on 20 stitches
Work knit 1 purl 1 ribbing until half the length of the diameter of your head (approx. 9").
Put the first 10 stitches on a spare needle and hold them to the front of your work. K1 P1 to end of the row. Put the first 10 stitches back onto the needle, and then K1 P1 to end of row.
Work knit 1 purl 1 ribbing until desired length. Cast off stitches, and sew the two ends together, and weave in yarns ends.
My dad calls me a teenager with the soul of a 35 year old ... we are soul sisters :) I love your blog!
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI'm trying this project, and was just wondering how many rows to knit with the 10 stiches on the needle. I think is says just one but I'm not totally sure
Thank you for the cool project! :)
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DeleteIt is just one row with the stitches split as 10 and 10 for the cable- hope that makes sense!
DeleteOk, I have tried this cable thing nine ways to Sunday and it's just not working. Can you give any more instruction on the cable row, please?
ReplyDeleteFor the cable, you will need a spare needle. Put the first 10 stitches on your spare needle and hold it to the front of your work. Then knit (knit 1 purl 1) the remaining 10 stitches. Then put the 10 stitches from the spare needle back on your needle and work them (knit 1 purl 1) to the end. Hope that makes sense! You might want to check out my cabling tutorial post which has some pictures. Good luck Tricia!
DeleteThanks. Got the cabling needles, tried exactly what you just described and every possible combination I could dream up. Also watched your tute and others on YouTube. Don't know what I'm missing.
DeleteMe to!! I just can't get it! I've tried tons of different tutorials, and the one she has, but I just can't!
DeleteOkay never mind I just frogged the whole attempt on cabling and will just ad some cute buttons or a flower or embroidery...
DeleteI am sooooo frustrated!! I have spent the entire morning trying to get this to work and I don't know what I am missing!!!!! Frogging for the 100th time!
ReplyDeleteI would like to add that I am an experienced knitter so I am completely frustrated!! Can I suggest you put a video tutorial up of your doing this particular cable???
ReplyDeleteThis pattern definitely has an error. Anyone out there with a fix?
ReplyDeleteI also had a problem getting this to work for me. I worked & reworked it many times until I realized that the pattern is actually correct if you follow it as printed. You just don't see how it works until after you finish that row and about an inch more. The work will start to turn itself into the pattern, and you will see that the twist is there. Magic! It looks wrong, but it is right if you just keep going. PS - I use a double pointed needle instead of a cable needle. I find it easier to just work the stitches off the DP. It also helps if you do not work too tightly, a problem I always fight. Hope this helps! Try again, trust yourself & the pattern, good luck!
Deleteslip the first ten stitches to cable needle and hold in front, pattern across the last ten stitches. now twist the cable needle and work the first stitch slipped. that gave it the twist and it takes a couple of rows to see it
ReplyDeleteHow many should I cast on using a size US 10 needle?
ReplyDeleteI used two different colors and was able to see the pattern immediately. I am excited to see the finished project.
ReplyDeleteCan someone give some tips for the twist? I cannot seem to get it.
ReplyDeleteHELP!!!! I also have attempted this pattern with no results!!!! It does not say anything about twisting the extra needle before re loading them......and the first 10 stitches....do you K1 P1 them and then put them on a third needle...which seems logical if you need to attach the yarn to the remaining stitches...can SOMEONE explain....I really like this pattern :(
ReplyDeleteIt really does work. The best advise I ever read for knitting was to just do what the directions say. Don't read ahead or try to understand it just do it. Sometimes it does feel a bit like jumping in blind. So, that's what I did. Put the first 10 sts on a spare needle and hold in front. Take your right hand needle and insert as if to knit in the first stitch of the 10 sts remaingin on the left hand needle. Pull your working yarn behind the front stitches and begin the k1, p1 rib for these 10 sts. Then put the first 10 sts that are held in front on the spare needle back on your left hand needle. Insert your right hand needle in the first stitch (whatever it may be) pull the working yarn behind to stitch position and continue. It will be twisted and feel very awkward. Continue for the second 10'" of ribing. It will "untwist" after a few rows and look like the first 10".
DeleteWhen you reload the 10 stitches, do you start with the outer edge stitch or the mid work stitch?
ReplyDeleteI actually figured it out for myself. The first stitch back on to the right needle is the first stitch slipped off (knit). The rest follow.
ReplyDeletewhat I'm wondering is, when you reload the 10 stitches, are you knitting and purling them right away? because to just slip them back on leaves you with the yarn in the middle of the row..
ReplyDeleteI guess what I mean, also, is why does it say "put the first [slipped] 10 stitches back on the needle" - why can't you just work from the needle they are already on - the needle used to slip them?
ReplyDeletein that sentence "put the first 10 stitches back on the needle" - is the "needle" the left hand needle, or the right hand?
(sorry for all the variations of this question - I'm just trying to make sure it's understandable, as I get tangled up here! Looking forward to seeing the twist come out in the best possible way, it's a great pattern)
I"m struggling with this too! When I go to put the first slipped stitches back on the needle, the cross over yarn pulls and it looks funny. Mine looked more like the sides folded in rather than making a criss cross. Any better tips? Or more photos of the actually cross over part in process?
ReplyDeleteJaney, this is happening to me too! I have ripped it out and restarted the cabling part so many times but it still looks like it's folded. I even did one really loose as suggested, but it does not look criss crossed like in the picture.
DeleteVicki
This happened to me too, but I was actually doing it correctly! The fabric was flipping itself, try flipping the fabric and you'll see the criss cross rather than the fold. I recommend viewing the linked YouTube tutorial posted in Nov 2019!
DeleteI love this project and I had no trouble with the "Cable Twist" but I can see where there might be some confusion.
ReplyDeleteFirst I would change the word "Put" to "Slip".
Second there is a very slight difference between the right and wrong side of the "Cable Twist, so decide which side you want to be the right side and mark it with a safety pin or thread a piece of yarn through a stitch. Make sure you have the right side facing you when you hold your stitches on your spare or cable needle in front of your work. I also agree with the comments by Anonymous 13 January 2016 at 14:52.
Tip: If the second row is very tight then undo the cable twist row and use a needle one size larger to work the cable twist row stitches onto, then go back to the regular size needle for the second row.
Ive been on an off trying to make this head band for two years.... AND TODAY I DID IT BITCHES. So happy right now. here's a tip, i know that knitting with your yarn tail on your cable/dpn/ whatever your using to hold you ten stitches in the beginning feels weird but just do it, there's no need to cut any yarn, its all one piece.
ReplyDeleteYour blog provided us with valuable information to work with. Each & every tips of your post are awesome. Thanks a lot for sharing. Keep blogging, Lue
ReplyDeleteSorry but I am an experienced knitter and there is definitely something wrong with this patten. You are all having trouble because the pattern is written wrong.
ReplyDeleteThis is a good turtorial on the technique she is using https://youtu.be/EVhWXpCYQGg
ReplyDeleteC10F. Simple instruction. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI too frogged a bunch of times. Then I figured out to move the stitches from the spare needle to the left hand needle and k1 p1 to the end. I was trying to move them to the top of the 10 stitches had already completed. Now it seems easy. Hopefully this helps someone.
ReplyDeleteI struggled with this pattern like so many commenters above, and I'm a somewhat experienced cable knitter, but I couldn't see any other way to do it after ripping it out and restarting three times, so I just kept going through the weird twisty phase and after a few more rows it suddenly twisted around the right way.
ReplyDeleteThe pattern works. Trust the pattern.
I wanted a slightly wider band so I cast on 24 stitches and C12F, and I love it.
How much yardage of yarn? I can't seem to find it, sorry. It's probably starring me right back in my face❗lol
ReplyDelete